From Deck of Cards to Dollars: Sihanoukville’s Casino Fever
The sea breeze that once whispered through fishing villages now carries the clatter of chips and the hiss of cigarettes. In a dimly lit casino on Phnom Penh’s coastline, businessman Dong Qiang walked out 1,500 S$ poorer, muttering that “to lose tonight isn’t a big deal” and promising to try his luck the next day.
How a Quiet Beach Became a Betting Bunker
Preah Sihanouk province, renamed to honor a revered king, has been rewriting its story several times. From a sleepy fishing ghetto it was first coaxed into the backpacker circuit, then into the lap of affluent Russians, and now it’s under the influence of a new wave – mainland Chinese investors.
Today’s reality: Chinese investment has turned the town into a gnarly gambling playground for tourists. According to the provincial governor the numbers speak for themselves:
- ~50 Chinese‑owned casinos buzzing across the town
- Dozens of hotel complexes in the works
- ~30 % of the local population now hails from China, a figure swelling in the last two years
- Real‑estate prices have leapt from roughly $500 per square metre to five‑times that for beachfront homes
Inside the Neon Fortress
Enter the Oriental Pearl Casino. Ten Chinese men sit in silence, cards shuffled over green felt. The neon glare from a row of “50 Dragons” slot machines frames them while they keep smoking in the corner. The casino’s floor is where millions of dollars change hands; insiders whisper that much of the real cash flow happens in “secret rooms” that host online gambling.
When an anonymous casino employee was asked by AFP, they shared a chilling hint: “Some gamblers lose hundreds of dollars in less than 20 minutes.”
China’s Largesse Makes a Splash
In the past decade, Cambodia’s relationship with its communist neighbour has sparked a massive cash influx. The province’s governor notes that between 2016 and 2018, the Chinese government and private companies poured in about $1 billion.
Part of this money funnels into the “One Belt, One Road” infrastructure plan – the highway to Phnom Penh passing through Sihanoukville is a prime illustration. Rumours swirl that Beijing also eyes a naval base in Koh Kong province, giving it a strategic foothold in the fevered waters of the South China Sea.
Despite the spectre of a port, Cambodia’s Prime Minister Hun Sen has vehemently denied the claims, even though Chinese warships recently docked at the town’s port.
The Big Picture — Opportunity or Instability?
Novice gamblers think Sihanoukville is just a fun getaway; seasoned investors see purpose. “They bring money because they see our potential,” declares Yun Min, provincial governor. Yet, the influx of foreign capital has also put a strain on modest locals, who watch as property values surge and the town’s character subtly shifts.
One thing’s clear: Whether the beach’s newfound sparkle glistens for joyous times or stinks of uneasy transition remains a story we’re still watching unfold.