Bulgari Unveils the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon – A Masterpiece of Innovation and Precision

Bulgari’s Thin‑Thickness Tango: The MD Who Almost Went to Prayer

In the world of luxury watches, kneeling for a favour from rivals is almost unheard of—unless you’re the Managing Director of Bulgari Watches, like Antoine Pin. During the birth of the Octo Finissimo Ultra, the brand’s most slender masterpiece (just 1.8 mm thick—thinner than a nickel!), Pin teetered on the edge of a handkerchief‑level plea.

Remember the Zoom? The Unexpected Oops Moment

On a recent Zoom with The Peak, Pin was asked about the biggest hurdle while crafting the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. He laughed, turned the conversation into a story, and told us the real giant in the room wasn’t the watch but the patent jungle.

The Patent Jungle

Patent Landscape: High‑horology is like a treasure hunt full of locked chests—every innovation is guarded.
Complexity & Innovation: The more intricate the timepiece, the higher the chance of stepping on another’s intellectual property.
Octo’s Claim: The Ultra itself carries eight patent applications pending, proving just how dicey the terrain can be.

Why It Feels Like a Dance—and a Prayer

Pin’s “kneel” moment wasn’t about physical penchants but about navigating the safeguards that keep the industry from turning into a wild, patent‑free zone. He had to kindly request a favor from competitors—virtually pleading for a little patent‑friendly grace.

And that’s the tale behind the brand’s latest blockbuster: a razor‑thin watch coupled with a version of high‑stakes diplomacy that leaves even the savviest horologists shivering in their socks.

Pin’s Great Oscillator Recall

On a cold December day last year, Pin, along with nine other teammates, gathered in a cramped room that smelled faintly of coffee and solder. The task looming over them was the final hurdle of the watch’s oscillator—an ancient, unforgiving beast that had burned their patience like an over‑cooked pancake.

The Two Creative Choices

Option One: Swing by a rival’s warehouse, straighten on their knees, and beg for a precious piece of patented tech. “Please, can we use this technology that you have patented?” they’d say, hoping for a miracle.
Option Two: Instead of pleading, redesign a single component of the oscillator. It wasn’t a textbook “neither this nor that” problem; it required thinking like a mad scientist.

It’s Redesign, Not Infractions

Pin swears he was galloping toward the first option—because asking for a dead‑manned patent isn’t a walk in the park, trust us. Luckily, the team went with the second route, patching up the watch’s oscillator from the ground up. The result? A keystroke closer to victory and a less mortified set of knees.

And the Takeaway?

Pin chuckles about how it feels like a relief breath that the second plan didn’t just work—it actually worked. “I’m glad,” he laughs, “the first option would have been a nightmare. Well, that’s the big lesson: if you’re in a swamp of tech patents, sometimes the solution is to ditch the swamp and invent a new rope.”

Winning streak

Bulgari’s Bold 10‑Year Journey to the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon

Bulgari isn’t one for the path of least resistance. In 2024, the brand proudly celebrates the decennial of the Octo family, a line that first burst onto the scene in 2012 with the daring Octo L’Originale.

First Moves: The Octo L’Originale

A heart‑shaped, octagonal case that echoes the arches of Rome’s Pantheon.
A round bezel that feels like a fresh splash of style.
Instantly set a new aesthetic standard for the collection.

2014: The Ultra‑Thin Revolution Begins

Enter the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual – a platinum case measuring a modest 40 mm by only 5 mm thick. The watch stole headlines as the world’s thinnest tourbillon at its time.

Every Year, a New Record Shock

2015: Octo Finissimo Time‑Only Automatic outdoes the thinness bar.
2016: The Minute Repeater turns the tables on what’s thought possible.
2017: Perpetual calendar arrives, still thinner than ever.
2019‑2023: Continued breakthroughs in each segment, proving Bulgari’s relentless pursuit of the impossible.

With each release, Bulgari’s audacious leap into the ultra‑thin domain of mechanical watches has not just broken records—it’s rewritten the playbook.

The Ultra-Thin Wonder: Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra

Beat the height game, and you’ve landed in watch‑record territory. Bulgari’s latest masterpiece, the Octo Finissimo Ultra, is—yep—you guessed it—the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. It’s the eighth ultra‑thin model in a decade, but this one is in a league of its own.

Breaking the Rules – Back to the Basics

In a press note from Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the product creation exec, he reminds us that making something as slim as this isn’t just about clever gear placement. “We had to break the rules not only in terms of movement design but also in terms of the case, caseback, bracelet and folding clasp,” he says. Think of it like trying to fit a whole orchestra onto a single loaf of bread.

The Caseback‑Mainplate: Two Birds, One Stone

It doubles as the mainplate for 170 tiny parts—all part of the manually wound BVL Calibre 180.
It houses the subdials too, so every beat is right where it needs to be.

Hard as a Diamond (Almost)

Because anyone would laugh if a 40mm‑wide watch fell apart, the design team slotted in a tungsten carbide element right into the caseback/Mainplate. With a Mohs hardness of nine—just shy of the diamond—this gives the watch super‑robust depth, without adding bulk.

No Stacking, Just Spreading

Instead of piling the movement on top of each other, the Octo Finissimo Ultra spreads its gears across the entire case. That layout lets the watch sport a regulator‑style dial: separate hour and minute subdials and a seconds display that’s literally etched onto the wheel in the gear train. Talk about creative engineering.

Why It Matters

When you’re pushing a mechanical watch to such extreme thinness, every component, every clearance, every material choice becomes mission‑critical. Remember that this isn’t just a watch—it’s a testament to mechanical artistry that feels almost impossible to wear… but oh, it’s practically next‑level wearable tech.

Meet the Gears That Outshine a Classic Crown

Forget the old-fashioned winding crown; this watch has tossed it out the window and introduced two little gear‑shaped knobs that do all the heavy lifting.

What’s Going On?

Winding gear: Placed right at the 8‑o’clock spot, it’s the muscle that keeps your watch ticking.
Setting gear: Located at the 3‑o’clock mark, it comes with its own tiny protectors to keep it safe while you adjust the time.
Both gears protrude from the caseback like proud little engines, a sleek nod to mechanical brilliance.

Why It’s a Game‑Changer

With these stylish, functional knobs, you’ll never have to wrestle with a crown again—just twist, turn, and let the gears do the work. Think of it as a watch with built‑in gym equipment for your wrist.

The Final Verdict

These gadgets turn a simple time‑keeping piece into a conversation starter—who needs a classic crown when you’ve got gears that look like mini‑gears?

An ode to modernity

Meet the Octo Finissimo Ultra: Tiny Timepiece, Huge QR Twist

Picture this: a watch so slender it could probably fit in your glove compartment razor‑thin dial, and now it’s getting a tech‑savvy upgrade. Bulgari’s latest masterpiece, the Octo Finissimo Ultra, boasts a glossy, laser‑etched QR code on its gleaming ratchet wheel.

Why a QR Code?

Think of the QR code as the secret handshake to a digital playground. Each of the ten exclusive watches comes with its own unique scan that drops you straight into a world of NFT art and behind‑the‑scenes content. It’s like having a personal vault that only you can open with a quick flick of your phone.

It’s Not Just a Trend

Bulgari says this flick of the wrist is more than a gimmick. The QR code unlocks an “entire digital ecosystem”—a curated space where the watch’s creation is documented, celebrated, and, yes, bragged about. In other words, you hold a watch that’s also a one‑of‑a‑kind digital museum.

What’s in It for You?

Exclusive NFT Art – Get access to one-of-a-kind pieces that match the watch’s sleek aesthetic.
Behind‑the‑Scenes – Peek into the engineers’ labs, the meticulous gold‑hammering, and the tiny gears that make magic happen.
Future Updates – The digital platform may evolve, adding more content or tools for future owners.

Launching Soon

Bulgari’s telling us the first Octo Finissimo Ultra will land on shelves in just a few months. That’s the moment when the watch’s QR will actually do the heavy lifting—turning a mineral clock into a digital superstar.

In short? Grab one of these rare pieces, scan its QR, and step into a luxury universe designed to keep your timepiece and tech hip in equal measure.

Bringing the Future to a 140-Year‑Old Tradition

Pin is the mastermind behind a bold twist on classic horology. “We’re mixing seven centuries of watchmaking with the latest tech,” he says, grinning. “It’s a paradox I adore, and I think it’s a game‑changer.

For him, the core mission stays the same: create mechanical masterpieces that can be cherished for a century or more. But now the team is sprinkling in modern twists that make good sense for their clients and artisans alike.

The Genesis of the QR Code Charm

Ever wondered how a quirky QR code ended up on a watch? Cue Pin’s top‑secret reveal: “The original design sketch was a wild card. We had a few non‑negotiable rules – the watch must feel solid, not flimsy, and it must run reliably with a solid power reserve.”

Balance Meets Brains

First idea: two mainspring barrels – one by the hour hand, another beside the minute hand – to pump out plenty of energy.
Reality check: the left side needed room for the oscillator.
Solution: a single larger barrel that holds a longer mainspring, giving the watch a solid 50‑hour reserve.

Decorating the Empty Space

With that massive barrel in place, a big blank patch on the ratchet wheel stared back. “We needed to do something creative,” says Pin. That’s when the QR code came into play – a subtle nod to the metaverse, a dash of geek chic, and a surprising way to keep the watch feeling both grounded and futuristic.

So there you have it: a timepiece that stays rooted in meticulous craftsmanship while embracing a dose of digital flair. It’s an elegant reminder that the past and the future can embrace hand‑in‑hand…and maybe even share a QR code.

QR Code Goes Get‑Up‑And‑Go on the Ratchet Wheel

Imagine a tiny QR code snugly nestled in the ratchet wheel of a modern watch. Not just a gimmick, but a daring design idea brought to life by Buonamassa Stigliani and championed by Pin.

Why the Design Twist Matters

Contrast is king – Squares inside a circle gives the wheel a crisp, almost rebellious look, while the octagonal Octo keeps that angular vibe alive.
Modern meets classic – A mechanical watch hosting a QR code feels like a bridge between ticking heritage and digital swagger.
Meaningful access – It’s not just a scanner; it’s a portal to contemporary living that the team feels proud of.

Pin’s Take on the Innovation

“It was such a great idea for us to lean on a mechanical watch to open the door to modernity,” says Pin. “This guy is stunning,” he adds, letting us know—yes, people are genuinely impressed.

Bottom Line

What began as a design experiment has turned into a statement of how tradition can seamlessly fuse with tech. And if you’re wondering if it’s practical, we’re still rooting for the unique appeal over pure functionality.

Star of the show

Celebrating a Legendary Watch: The 10th‑Anniversary Octo Finissimo

Every time we chat with Pin, the name Buonamassa Stigliani pops up like a secret handshake. As the mastermind behind Bulgari Watches’ most iconic pieces, he’s the brain that turns Roman heritage into sleek, modern timepieces. No wonder the Octo Finissimo has snagged over 60 international awards since it first rolled out.

What’s New?

Octo Finissimo Anniversary Edition – A fresh take on the 2017 Automatic.
Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Anniversary Edition – A revamp of the 2019 GMT model.
Both sport the signature 40mm sandblasted titanium case and the all‑grey look that’s become a trademark.
What makes these editions tick: early pencil sketches by Stigliani that inspired the whole collection years ago.

The Design Twist

For these launch pieces, they turned the “birth certificate” of a watch into a printable love letter. The sketches were the first whispers that eventually morphed into the Octo Finissimo line. Think of it like pulling out your grandfather’s original doodles and turning them into a blockbuster hit.

Why Highlight the Designer?

When asked if this was a vanity move by Pin to spotlight the chief designer, the answer was a playful mix of “yes and no.” He explained that the whole idea was to celebrate the watch’s milestone—a “birth.” And what is a watch’s birth moment? An honest sketch.

“We also wanted to celebrate Fabrizio in a special way,” Pin laughed. “Those are his drawings, and he’s amazing. So, when we honor the anniversary, we’re essentially giving a big shout‑out to the watch’s ‘mummy.’”

Wrap‑up

With two fresh releases that both honor the past and push forward, the Octo Finissimo’s 10th‑anniversary editions keep the brand’s innovation alive. If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to hold a piece of design history, this is the opportune moment to grab one.