Tokyo’s Timeless Yard: The Heartbreak and Hope of Tsukiji’s Fisherfolk
Picture this: an 8‑year‑old Takako Arai dashing through the labyrinth of concrete pillars at Tokyo’s Tsukiji market, hiding behind a stack of fish crates, laughing with her brother. That was the first chapter of her life. Now, at 45, she’s the proud owner of a family stall that proudly sells fresh mackerel and yellowfin tuna—yet the whole scene is on the brink of a dramatic end.
The Big Move
In a surprising turn of events, Tsukiji’s iconic market—an 83‑year‑old fish haven that draws visitors from all corners of the globe—has been handed the keys to a shiny new $5 billion arena in Toyosu, a reclaimed island a bit farther from downtown Tokyo.
“I feel torn,” said Arai. “I grew up in Tsukiji, and leaving feels like wiping out a piece of our collective memory.”
What’s Happening to the Market?
- The market is a maze of shops, warehouses, and wee truck dinettes that hustle around with frosted boxes of fish.
- City officials claim the place has fallen into disrepair and is unsanitary, pushing for a modern replacement.
- However, before we embrace the new fancy building, fishmongers love the idea of staying close to their homes, where they can balance work and family life.
- Concerns loom over the new site in Toyosu, such as possible contaminated soil and tougher commutes for the traders.
Stand‑Up or Move Up?
Not everyone agrees with the relocation. A recent survey—backed by a group fighting the move—revealed that more than 80% of Tsukiji’s traders are against the proposal.
The Legal Showdown
When the clock was ticking, 56 traders filed a lawsuit against the city a month ago, aiming to stall the process. They’re pleading for a temporary injunction, hoping to hear a court ruling before the market shuts its doors on Saturday.
Emotionally Charged and Even a Touch of Humor
While the debate rages—“Do we keep the old sushi soul or follow the chrome trail?”—the traders’ living rooms echo with resilience. “We’ll keep our old fish roll way home, even if it means hauling the truck to a new island,” joked one trader, revealing that even when faced with change, the true spirit of the market stays raw and refreshing—just like a tuna sashimi at dawn.
Takeaway
Even as Tokyo trades its green spaces for glass facades, the echo of Tsukiji’s market remains loud: a place where culture, history, and family echo… with a bit of fishy magic and a splash of humor, keeping the city’s heart beating fresh and vibrant.
Tsukiji’s Final Curtain Call
When the market door finally swings shut…
A bustling wholesale fish hub in Tokyo was finally put on pause after its last trading day at the historic Tsukiji market on 27 September 2018. It’s a moment that felt both like the sigh of relief after a marathon and the bitter taste of a sea‑food gone cold.
All Eyes on Toyosu
More than a month after the final lock-up, the new and supposedly grander Toyosu market is ready to open its doors on 11 October. Yet, the hope for a smooth transition is tempered by a giggle‑punch of skepticism from many traders.
“People Have Already Spoiled the Fun”
Arai, a 45‑year‑old fish trader whose family has mastered the art of market buying for 95 years, shared her frustration:
“Clients are telling me the new location is a pain to reach. They’d rather buy nearer to restaurants. What can I do? They’re business folks too.”
With fewer customers on hand, Arai worries about covering the hefty relocation costs—hundreds of thousands of dollars in new freezers and refrigeration units—and still finding a good deal.
Protests on the Streets
During a spirited demonstration on the last Saturday at Tsukiji, roughly 300 fishmongers and activists shouted “Toyosu No No No” and waved banners demanding the relocation halt.
The historic market, once the beating heart of Tokyo’s culinary scene, saw tourists shrug off the drizzle to chant and support the frenzy of fish hawkers.
“They’ve Spun Other Roads About a Place They It’s All About Cash”
Among the voices was Kiyoshi Kimura, owner of one of Japan’s biggest sushi chains Sushi Zanmai. His emotional, gravelly voice rose with tears as he recounted a 17‑year‑old dream of bringing tourists back to Tsukiji, having opened his first restaurant there in 2001.
“These bureaucrats have forgotten that people live around here. It’s all about money for them, no kindness at all.”
He reminisced about his record $1.76 million purchase of a bluefin tuna during the 2013 New Year auction—an attempt to revive the market’s star fish.
The Twisting Road to Toyosu
The relocation plan has bumpy history: from 17 years of delay, toxic soil and groundwater findings in 2016 (a former gas plant site), to the frantic drilling of more than 3.8 billion yen or $33.5 million for groundwater clear‑ups.
Tokyo Governor Yuriko Koike declared in July that Toyosu was safe once more, after experts signed off on cleanup measures. Still, some fish traders remain doubtful.
Lookout—Tsukiji Goes to the Olympics
The old Tsukiji property will be temporarily repurposed as a parking lot for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, with hopes of turning it into a tourist attraction afterward.
In Its Final Days—The Market’s Rhythm
Even as the great bell rang for the last time, the market remained a whirlwind—men dramatically unloading, arranging, and packing thousands of cartons of fish, while early morning traders stood on cobblestones to deal in seafood.
Life Amid the Junkyard
Koji Amano, one of sixteen plaintiffs in a lawsuit about the move, has a 47‑year‑old stall selling the king of sushi—maguro, bluefin tuna. He, along with his two brothers, remember the days of trade at Tsukiji and now stare at the future with a mix of resignation and hope.
“They’re determined to move us out. There isn’t much we can do to stop them.”
Will the Trade Move with the Market?
Traders, collectors, and chefs now face the big question: will they follow the market’s transition to Toyosu? Their keen ears have already picked up whispers of uncertainty—yet the market’s pulse continues to beat out the possibility of new horizons.
